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Z Zegna - Menswear Autumn/Winter 2014/2015 Show in Milan (with interview)

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Inspired by the cultural mod movement of the 1960s, z zegna’s creative director, paul surridge, reinvents tailoring by always adding a hint of sportswear to an urban look. the jacket is more flexible, free from shoulder pads with an open back incorporating straps, whilst overcoats become parkas. as a leitmotif, elastic bands encircle the sleeves of all the garments. checks and pinstripes structure the entire collection, starting with the suit trousers turned-up over the ankle. colours appear in blocks (notably bright yellow and bottle green), perfectly highlighting the graphic effect within the collection...interview:paul surridge:we started looking at the mod movement in the late 60s and early 70s in which the younger generation connected to the sartorial world by using the mod movement where they adopted the suit as a symbol of change.i like the fact that it is sartorial. i wanted to move away from sportswear but to sportify, if you like, the sartorial excellence of zegna and making it relevant for younger kids so we have basically taken away all of the weight and the padding and basically completely destructured the shoulder so it feels younger. so, it feels like sportswear but you have this outward elegance, this sartorial impact.english sleeve garters are obviously historical ways to keep the shirt in place but we translated them with elastic so this kind of graphic element and it is also like dressing a tribe, you can band yourself and make a message.music from the show